By Kristen Oliphant, WNPF Events and Partnerships Coordinator
The best days start when I wake up knowing I’m about to set out on an adventure in the mountains. Today was one of those days. I am biking the North Cascades Highway.
When I found out there is a brief window where cyclists can bike the highway before it opens to cars for the season, I had to add it to the bucket list. Riding this picturesque highway without the worry of cars passing or having to hug the shoulder is a cyclist’s dream.
State Route 20, also called the North Cascades Highway, is a highway that traverses the U.S. state of Washington. It is the state’s longest highway traveling 436 miles across the northern areas of Washington. The highway crosses Whidbey Island, North Cascades National Park, the Okanagan Highland, the Kettle River Range, and the Selkirk Mountains, and it’s not surprising that it’s been called “The Most Beautiful Mountain Highway in the State of Washington.”
At the beginning of this year, I made a pact with myself for 2022 that I will ride the North Cascades Highway. As winter moved into spring, I started checking WSDOT East Twitter’s account eagerly waiting for any updates on the start of plowing the highway. On March 29th, the tweet came: crews had started working on the spring clearing of the highway!
While I anxiously waited for the maintenance crew to work their magic, I studied the route, trying to understand what kind of mileage/elevation gain I was to face. I went to my trusty friend Gaia and started playing around with different routes.
The first route I created was a one-way route that began at Newhalem and ended in Mazama. Sixty miles with 9000’ elevation gain? In one day? And I would still have to get BACK to my car? Maybe next year when I’m feeling even more up to the challenge and more insane. I needed to be realistic about the mileage and elevation gain as I knew this was going to be a big ride. I decided I would do an out and back: starting at Diablo Lake Lookout, riding to Washington Pass, and then ending back at Diablo Lake Lookout.
I obsessively checked the plowing progress. The crew was making moves and they were making them fast. I looked ahead at the forecast and saw a weather window on Wednesday, May 11th and decided that was going to be THE day. And then the news I had been eagerly anticipating came but it arrived a day earlier than expected: The highway was opening to cars on Tuesday, May 10th. My heart sank. I am a day too late. But there was no turning back, I had this adventure set in my mind. It may not have been the original plan, but I was too invested and cars or no cars I’m doing the dang thing.
Wednesday finally arrived. I made the final touches on my gear, loaded up the car, strapped my bike on my car rack, and started making the 2-hour and 15-minute drive to Diablo Lake. I passed the entrance sign to North Cascades National Park and let out a yelp of excitement as I knew I was getting closer to the beginning of this epic adventure. I pulled into Diablo Lake Lookout (1600’), stepped out of my car, breathed in the crispy, chilly morning air, and absorbed the views of the snowcapped peaks nearby (Sourdough Mountain, Colonial Pyramid, Pyramid Peak, and Jack Mountain). I loaded up my bike, made a final check on gear, strapped on my helmet, and hopped onto the saddle. I clicked in and made the first push towards Washington Pass.
I always have a rush of emotions and nerves when starting a big physical challenge. I immediately reflect on the buildup and preparation to get to this moment and then the realization sets in that I can’t believe I’m actually doing this. There’s no turning back.
I cruised along with the flow of the winding road observing the vibrant turquoise color of Diablo Lake and Ross Lake, soaking in the sea of peaks that surround me, and feeling the water cascading off the hillside cliff onto the road.
It’s a consistent uphill climb to Rainy Pass (4800’) with a couple of relatively flat sections. I continued pushing on, focusing on each breath, each peddle, and the picturesque views around me. The morning had turned into a bluebird day and the mountains of the North Cascades were proving why they are one of the most beautiful mountain ranges in North America. I glanced behind me and saw a monster of a beauty: Crater Mountain lingering in the background. I did a U-turn and took a break to shed some layers, drink water, and take in the views with awe.
Back on the saddle, I continued climbing; it’s a continuous 2-6% grade uphill to the pass. I was riding parallel with Granite Creek feeling the cold air flowing off the water’s surface. I knew I was nearing Rainy Pass as the snow wall encompassing both sides of the road grew taller with each mile. As I slowly made my way up the hill feeling the burn in my quads, my breath was simultaneously being taken away by my exertion as well as the mountains around me. They became more grandeur and dramatic with each pedal forward.
The North Cascades Range, often called the American Alps, are unlike any other – with the most expansive glacial system in the contiguous US. These mountains are incomprehensibly mind-blowing. They’re spectacularly rugged, extremely exposed, and impressively unique with their exquisite granite spires.
I made it to Rainy Pass and took a quick break; I hydrated, ate a couple of energy chews, and stared in awe at the snowcapped mountains off in the distance admiring their untouched exposed spines. I hopped back on the saddle and made the final push towards the pass. I immediately gained some speed as I hit my first major downhill of the trek. I let my legs rest and a rush of gratitude came over me.
I can’t believe I am here right now in this magnificent landscape. It feels like a dream.
I came back down to Earth when I realized the downhill was over and I was yet on another climb up a hill. I knew this had to be the final push as Blue Lake was nearing. I was not prepared for how this final uphill would try to get the best of me. At this point I was already 25+ miles in and had done about 4000’ elevation gain, I was… well, as they say, “pooped”. I stopped to catch my breath and check my Gaia map. I had about 5 miles to go with almost 1000’ of elevation gain. I would have been lying if I said I wasn’t feeling exhausted and impatient.
The thoughts were coming in: “Why is this taking so long? Why do I feel like I’m crawling? Why is this the longest hill of my life?” I wanted to stop every 200 feet, but I knew I couldn’t, I had to power through. Pushing through my exhaustion was tough. I had to recenter my brain and refocus my thoughts. I stopped and had a pep talk with myself: “I can do this. Take it one pedal at a time. Focus on your breath. Focus on your surroundings.”
I reminded myself that this moment is all I have. Savor it. One final push, make it count.
Before I knew it, I was on top of the hill and there stood the most beautiful evergreen sign I have ever seen Washington Pass Elevation 5477. The biggest wave of relief, gratitude, and excitement flew through me. I stopped and talked with two other lovely cyclists I had met on the way up (Brad and Ryan), took approximately 1.5 million photos, sat on the road against a snow wall, ate some lunch, and took in the views around me: Early Winters Spires South, Liberty Bell Mountain, Lexington Tower, and Concord Tower.
It was time to saddle up and hit the road to make the descent back to the car. The first half of the ride was full of fast downhill riding and breathtaking mountain vista views. It was a challenge trying to take it all in without losing control of my bike.
The second half of the ride back had slowly become an unexpected challenge. The side winds had picked up significantly crossing over Granite Creek and I had to now start pedaling on the downhills. This is ridiculous, I thought. I felt myself slowly getting frustrated. I couldn’t coast the rest of the way back like I thought I’d be able to. I reeled in my emotions and “just let go, let flow”.
I made the final uphill climb and knew I was close to the end of this journey. I took it all in as I wove through the last curves of the road, and then I saw my endpoint: Diablo Lake Lookout. As Rick Astley’s “Never Gonna Give You Up” came on in my headphones, I couldn’t help but let out a huge scream as I rode into the parking lot feeling a huge wave of emotions, gratitude, and accomplishment come over me.
After climbing 5,814’ over 63 miles, I finally did it. One of the most epic and challenging rides I have experienced in a long time. I couldn’t have asked for a more beautiful day on the most beautiful mountain highway.
Interested in biking the North Cascades Highway? Visit North Cascades National Park’s website for route information, safety considerations, and more.