Trek for the Trails: A Detailed Account of Hiking The Enchanted Valley


August 23, 2024

By Beth Glosten, WNPF Board Member

Last winter, Washington’s National Park Fund introduced Trek for Trails and I was thrilled for a fundraising event that didn’t involve climbing a mountain! I immediately signed up for the 4-day trip to the Enchanted Valley in Olympic, guided by Wildland Trekking Company (WTC) on July 27-30, 2024.

For the inaugural trek of this program, trekkers were responsible for raising $1,900 to support trail maintenance in Olympic National Park. Thanks to dear friends, I met my goal by May!

💡 Fun fact: With over 600 miles of trail in Olympic National Park, stock mules are an essential part of the trail crew! Donors have funded the purchase of several mules to continue the work on your favorite trail. Learn about these four-legged team members in this story.

Plan, Pack, Proceed

Our group included two fellow WNPF board members (Tony and Dan) and two WNPF staff (Alex and Andrea). Although WTC was prepared to provide all the essentials for the trip, we all had prior backpacking experience, so we opted to use our own gear. As I was packing, it seemed odd to leave behind my stove and first aid kit since our guide brought it!

Five people standing in front of a fallen tree in the middle of a forest.
The gang: left to right, back to front: Alex, Andrea, Beth, Dan, Tony, Finn

Speaking of our guide, we met Finn on a call the Friday before our departure. High energy and enthusiastic, Finn reviewed our itinerary:

  • Day 1 – 6.5 miles to O’Neil campground
  • Day 2 – 6.8 miles to the Enchanted Valley
  • Days 3 and 4 – Retrace our steps out

We met in Olympia early Saturday morning and headed out. At the Graves Creek Trailhead, Finn distributed our shares of food and other camping essentials. (His pack was certainly many pounds heavier than any of ours). His advice: bear cans in the bottom of the pack with tent, clothing and other essentials stuffed around it for best use of pack space – great tips!

🧐 Searching for more backcountry tips? Check out WNPF’s Backcountry Beginners blogs to help prepare for your next trip in the backcountry!

Finn set a 25-year-old’s pace at the beginning. My mid-60’s body reacted: heart pounding, sweat dripping, muscles complaining. We climbed up and down the typical rocky and rooted paths of Olympic. The East Fork of the Quinault River accompanied us nearly every step of the way, crashing over rocks and careening through canyons.

A Fresh Forest Feast!

A view of mountains behind a forest and a river in the foreground.
Looking up at Anderson Peak and glacier from the Enchanted Valley.

We arrived at O’Neil campground late in the afternoon and while we set up our tents, Finn set up the water filter, hand washing, and cooking stations. For dinner, he presented curried tempeh and vegetables over rice. Fresh vegetables in the wilderness!

The creative and delicious meals Finn prepared was a highlight of the trip: a breakfast hash with eggs, red pepper and potatoes; quinoa with nuts and dried fruit; lunches of turkey and veggie wraps and seafood sandwiches; and seafood pasta for dinner. What a luxury!

Flora, Fauna, and a Historic Building

“Thank you!” I said to Finn when he announced on day 2 that he planned a slower, steadier pace. Frequent breaks allowed us to take in the special grandeur of the old growth forests, notice the nursery of evergreens and ferns, and ripening huckleberries around us. We really are fortunate to have this park in Washington.

Step by step, we made our way to the Enchanted Valley. My legs were adjusting, and I was grateful for my trekking poles. A high log bridge offered a “mind over matter” challenge for those of us who fear heights but also heralded our arrival. The valley opened before us offering myriad campground choices and vast views. We settled in the trees.

After lunch, we soothed our feet in the Quinault River while gazing up at the surrounding towering mountainsides graced with waterfalls, and Anderson peak and glacier to the north. The sun was warm; we were bathed in the sounds of Olympic National Park.

Over 40 elk bedded in a green meadow.
The elk herd noted us with distinct disinterest.

We inspected the 1930’s chalet. On the National Register of Historic Buildings, it served as a mountain retreat, as well as a WWII Aircraft Warning Station. Now it is boarded up, with its survival threatened by the eroding river.

The next morning dawned drizzly, as predicted. Out came the pack covers and raincoats. Any rainfall remained gentle as we made our way back to O’Neill campground, but it did bring out banana slugs and a toad. Movement on the edge of a meadow revealed, one-by-one, a herd of 40-50 elk grazing in river wetlands!


🦌 Get to know the elk that aided in the creation of Olympic National Park. As a keystone species, WNPF is funding research to protect and monitor the largest, unmanaged Roosevelt Elk herd in the Pacific Northwest. Read the story here.

The Gift of Trails

Tuesday morning, after packing up, a final look around the campground revealed a lone grazing elk up the hill, again, oblivious to us. We retraced our initial steps in this final leg of the journey, recalling the challenging first uphill leg as we returned to the parking lot. 

We had our last lunch together, then as we headed back to Olympia, our previously silent cell phones began to ping as we got within service range. Such a gift, to be offline for four days!

I was tired driving home, but so grateful to have experienced both the scenery of this glorious valley and the comradery of WNPF friends. My heart is full knowing that trails like this one will be maintained for others to enjoy, thanks to my friends who supported this fundraising trek. As a result, my memory is full of trees, moss, fresh air, and the East Fork of the Quinault.

Are you up for the challenge?

In the program’s inaugural year, the trekkers raised over $7,000 for trail maintenance in Olympic National Park! Visit the Trek for the Trails page if you’re interested in taking on the challenge and making a difference in national parks. Many thanks to our partner guide company, Wildland Trekking for their expertise and for making this trip possible.


Washington’s National Park Fund is the official philanthropic partner to Mount Rainier, North Cascades, and Olympic National Parks. We raise private support to preserve and protect Washington’s national parks by funding scientific research, youth and family experiences, and projects that will keep these parks strong and vital now and forever, for everyone.

Cover photo by Finn from Wildland Trekking. Blog photos by Beth Glosten.