By John Newhoff, WNPF Volunteer
Newhalem and Diablo, the two small communities at the western entrance to North Cascades National Park Service Complex, are often considered ‘drive-thru country’ by those of us heading into the park. But the area is full of interesting history and hidden tidbits that make it worth exploring.
If you enjoy history, hiking, or even hydrology, something may pique your interest in these gateway areas. Read through the blog and you might just add a pitstop or two to your next North Cascades Highway (also known as SR20) road trip.
📢 NOTE: Fires around Washington State may affect your trip, especially to the North Cascades. Be sure to check the park’s Fire Closures and overall Current Conditions for the status of roads, trails, and campgrounds.
Before European settlers arrived, the Newhalem area was home to Native American tribes, including the Upper Skagit people. The tribes relied on the abundant resources of the Skagit River and the surrounding forests for their livelihood. The river, rich in salmon, was a crucial part of their diet and culture.
The word ‘Newhalem’ is a native word and means ‘goat snare’ or ‘the place to hunt goats’. Several native artifacts found in Newhalem during the tenure of Seattle City Light were recently returned to the Upper Skagit tribe, including a heavy stone fish club.
The Skagit River and nearby Cascade Pass, played a significant role in the lives of the Puget Sound tribes, serving as a travel route between the coast and the interior regions, facilitating trade and communications in both directions. There are great spots on the River Loop Trail starting behind the Newhalem Visitor Center, where you can enjoy the peaceful river. Read more about the tribes that have called these lands home since time immemorial.
The arrival of Europeans in the Newhalem area began in the mid to late 19th century, once huge log jams on the lower Skagit were cleared, opening up access to the upper Skagit region, mostly for mining exploration at first. Placer mining on Ruby Creek and hard rock mining in areas like Horseshoe Basin on the east side of Cascade Pass attracted early miners. These mines never yielded a great deal and transportation costs were high. None of the early commercial mining operations have survived into modern times, though remains of old mining exploration can be found scattered here and there in the North Cascades backcountry.
The real transformation of Newhalem and Diablo came with the development of the Skagit River Hydro Project. In the early 20th century, as Seattle’s population grew, so did its electricity demand. The city’s answer was to harness the power of the Skagit River. The project began in the 1920s, under the leadership of JD Ross, an early superintendent of Seattle City Light and a huge proponent of harnessing the Skagit for hydropower.
The Skagit River Hydro Project included the construction of three dams: Gorge Dam, Diablo Dam, and Ross Dam. The construction of these dams required significant infrastructure, including the building of a railroad to transport materials and workers to the remote site. The first to be completed was Gorge Dam in 1924, followed by Diablo Dam in 1930, and finally, Ross Dam in 1949.
Seattle City Light publishes an excellent brochure outlining a walking tour of Newhalem. You’ll see the original homes that housed project managers, Gorge Inn where workers were fed (and you can have dinner too in the summer on select days of the week), and the Gorge Powerhouse, where the water from Gorge Lake is turned into electricity. The powerhouse is open in the summer and fall from 8am to 4pm daily.
There are two great nature walks that start in Newhalem – The Trail of The Cedars follows the south bank of the Skagit for a short loop walk to the Newhalem Creek powerhouse and back. The Ladder Creek Falls hike behind the Gorge Powerhouse is a 0.5 mile uphill walk to Ladder Creek Falls, a beautiful waterfall that is lit at night every day of the year from dusk until midnight!
Ring the bell on Old #6
The original steam locomotive used on the Puget Sound & Baker River Railroad is located on the side of SR20 in Newhalem, next to the convenience store. The railroad was built to haul people, equipment, and supplies for the construction of the hydro project. You can climb up in the cab and ring the brass bell hanging from the front of the locomotive. Historical fact: Old #6 served her entire working career on the Puget Sound & Baker River Railroad.
Check out the old town of Diablo
Many people drive right by, but the left turn off the highway into Diablo is worth a little exploration. Diablo was the 2nd town constructed to house workers during the building of the hydro project and was the end of the line of the railroad. Drive through the town, past the Diablo powerhouse, and you can see the incline railroad that took heavy supplies and equipment from the train up to Diablo Lake for the barge ride to the Ross Dam construction site. There’s a great photo on the wall in Gorge Inn at Newhalem of a full-size railroad box car riding up the hillside on the incline railway.
📢 NOTE: As of September 2024, due to a lingering closure from the Sourdough fire of 2023, the above side trip is not currently possible. Check the North Cascades National Park website for updates.
Diablo Dam and the North Cascades Environmental Learning Center (ELC)
Another left-hand turn off of the highway will take you on the one-lane road across the top of Diablo Dam. There are a few spots on the north side of the dam that are perfect for parking for a few minutes and walking back out onto the dam. At the right time of year, one or more of the spillways may be open.
Continue on the north side of the dam to the end of the road and you’ll find the North Cascades Environmental Learning Center (ELC), managed by our friends at North Cascades Institute. You can drive or walk up to the office – they have a great gift shop and an excellent library. Check out their website for a list of events and workshops. I’ve enjoyed a WNPF board retreat there in the past and two watercolor painting workshops; it’s a great place to stay, learn new things, and meet new people!
A couple of excellent hikes start from the north side of Diablo and the ELC. The Diablo lakeshore trail follows Diablo Lake, up to the base of Ross Dam, and has great views of the narrow arm of Diablo Lake snaking its way up to Ross Dam. The Sourghdough Creek trail is a shorter hike up to a small waterfall. There is also a good place to launch your kayak just before the ELC if you’d like to do some paddling on Diablo Lake.
City Light Tours
Seattle City Light offers hydro project tours during the summer that include a boat tour on Diablo Lake, tours of the Gorge Inn, and the famous “Dam Good Chicken Dinner”.
Newhalem and Diablo are more than just gateways to the North Cascades—they are destinations in their own right, rich with history and hidden gems. From the legacy of the Skagit River Hydro Project to some great walks and hikes, there is something for everyone when exploring this area. Whether you’re paddling on Diablo Lake, hiking through ancient forests, or simply soaking in the history of the area, you’re sure to find an adventure that speaks to you.
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Cover photo by Alex Day and blog photos by John Newhoff and Kacee Saturay.