Photos and Story by Corinne Alexander
The Olympic National Park offers incredible sights, from snow-capped mountains, to lush forests draped in moss, and beaches framed by towering trees and sea stacks. All of this topographical variety can be seen in a day’s drive around the Peninsula. But to really get a feel for it, my husband and I traveled for 3 days in a retro VW Vanagon Westfalia, courtesy of our friends at PacWesty.
PacWesty is a fairly new travel company in Bainbridge that rents Volkswagen camper vans for adventurous road trips in the Pacific Northwest. Our van, Lulu, came fully outfitted with a swing-up dining table, fold-down bed, cooking gear, and everything we could possibly need for a weekend camping trip. All we had to do was pick up the keys, hit the grocery store before leaving down, and we were ready for an adventure. (Lulu is now ‘wrapped’ with posters of our three national parks, and the WNPF logo!)
These vintage pleasure units make the perfect adventure companions for exploring the PNW with ease. They’re super cozy and fun to drive (seriously, I had to talk my husband out of buying his own when we got home). And let’s be honest, they just make you feel cool when you’re on the road! So, if you’re looking to travel the Olympic Peninsula in style, I highly recommend checking out PacWesty.
After getting set up by the fine folks at PacWesty, we headed out west on our adventure. Within just a few miles, we already felt right at home in Lulu. Every passing Vanagon traveler flashed us a peace sign, and we immediately felt initiated into some secret club we never knew we longed to be a part of.
Hurricane Ridge was first on the itinerary, and we took Lulu slow up the mountain incline, in awe of the expansive outlooks to our left. We arrived at the top around golden hour, shortly before sunset, and the views were absolutely breathtaking — 360-degrees of indigo mountains plunged into golden rolling valleys. I could have happily stayed there the entirety of our trip. Alas, we had a campsite at the bottom of the hill we were eager to stake claim on.
What I love about van camping is the flexibility. No hotel check-in or check-out times to worry about; just pull into a campsite or rest stop when you please. No fussing with setting up or tearing down a tent; just pop the top and fold out the bed. No hassling with a campfire for a hot meal; just crank on the stove. Not to mention it’s cheaper because accommodations and travel are bundled into one. And, last but not least, you get to wake up in some pretty incredible places.
Our first sleep in the van was surprisingly comfy, and we woke up refreshed and ready for a day of adventure. During our early fall visit, the road was lined with lush greens and dashes of autumnal colors on all sides. The trees would occasionally open up, offering a peek at a glistening lake. I kept my face pressed against the van window the duration of the drive, sporadically shouting out, “It’s so pretty!” every couple of miles.
After a quick photo pit stop at Lake Crescent, we headed to Sol Duc Falls for a hike through old-growth forest. It was a rare sunny day, a last hurrah of summer, so everyone in Washington seemed to be out for a walk. While the falls were beautiful, I was craving something a bit more secluded, so we ventured onward and found a trail called Lover’s Lane. What I assumed would be a leisurely stroll through the woods turned into a 6-mile hike! I couldn’t complain much since every aspect of it was stunning: towering Douglas firs, dense fern beds as tall as me, small falls running into the adjacent river. Save for two groups of passing hikers, and an owl we spotted in the trees, we had the entire trail to ourselves. But after the unplanned hike, we couldn’t wait to get back to our van for a much-needed lunch break.
One of my favorite parts about van camping is the convenience of a mobile homebase. No need to drive back to a hotel for a rest or seek out a café for lunch. The van is your bedroom and kitchen, and the great outdoors is your living room.
Next, we made for the coast, stopping at Rialto Beach for some brief beachcombing, then cruising to Second Beach before sunset. The route to Second Beach cuts through yet another gorgeous old-growth forest, light barely penetrating the dense treetops. A fairytale-esque trail leads the way through thick hemlocks, their bases caressed by moss. Switchback staircases bordered by dewy ferns took us toward the sound of crashing waves. The forest finally met the sea and opened up to a view of massive sea stacks and piles of weathered drift logs. We took the blanket PacWesty provided us, along with a complimentary bottle of wine, and sat against the makeshift driftwood shelters on the beach until dark, soaking up the salty ocean air.
The previous night, we had driven through the dark to set up camp at the Hoh Rainforest campground. Shrouded in darkness, we picked a parking spot at random, not knowing where we’d wake in the morning. But let me tell you – waking up in a rainforest, to the sound of rain lightly tapping on our Westy, was the most magical feeling. We slid the van door open to an enchanting forest of lush vibrant greens and branchy Sitka spruce sodden with moss. We cooked breakfast burritos with our camp stove under the covering of trees, while tiny chickaree (or Douglas) squirrels darted in and out of the fern beds.
We spent our last day on the Olympic Peninsula exploring the Hoh Rainforest’s Hall of Mosses. This place is otherworldly. Towering maples and spruce blot out the sky, their branches hanging like limbs resembling Tolkien Ents. Every inch is blanketed in moss, dripping from vines in excess. We could hear the rain dancing on the dense canopy above. I kept my eyes peeled for rumored sightings of elk but found none. I tried soaking up every last ounce of magic from this place before heading back to the van.
The Pacific Northwest has a way of making you feel like no amount of time is ever enough. I honestly could have spent weeks getting lost in these forests, hiking mountain trails, camping along the beaches, and making that little Westy our home away from home. Needless to say, we’re already dreaming of our next trip back. For more information about traveling with PacWesty, visit www.pacwesty.com.